Cookware Review: The Workhorse That Wasn’t
TLDR: Don’t buy a de Buyer carbon steel pan.
TLDR2: Do your research before investing in cookware.
I love cookware. It’s almost a borderline obsession and at times, my collection flirts with the definition of being obnoxious. That said, I will not stop. Each time I watch Minimalism or a Ted Talk about reducing material things, I think I could definitely do that with the exception of my kitchen. Sure, I’ve given things away out of my collection, and have gifted people great cookware over the years, but the thought of parting with my cookware and calling it excess material is just not going to happen.
That being said, I have tried plenty of things out that haven’t worked that either end up being given away or in the trash compactor.
Right around a year ago a coworker told me about a carbon-steel pan and how amazing it was supposed to be, but they were having a hard time seasoning in and making it “non-stick”. I asked why not use cast-iron (my favorite material to cook with) and they said that this was supposed to be better, lighter, and all-around a great pan. I was sold. In all honesty, I probably pulled my phone out, opened my amazon app, and purchased one on the spot. Pro Tip - do your research before investing in a pan.
The carbon steel pan I got was a de Buyer Mineral B 12.6 inch fry pan which set me back $58.42. It arrived a few days later (thanks Amazon Prime!) and I was ready to season it. I had watched several YouTube videos and read many articles about the best way to season this pan, as I was determined to make it work. I tried everything I could think of, and by leaving it on my stovetop and making it the most convenient pan to cook it, I had finally established a dark, non-stick-like surface. I was elated. It was lighter than my cast iron and seemed to sear just as well.
What could possibly go wrong?
I didn’t read the FAQs on the manufacture’s website.
“All cooking utensils from our iron ranges can be used in traditional ovens. Nevertheless, pans equipped with an iron handle coated with epoxy can only flash in the oven (10 minutes at 200°C maximum) as extended exposure to heat or to a higher temperature might damage the epoxy coating. For any longer cooking in an oven, we recommend you to use cookware with stainless steel or aluminum handles.”
D’oh.
I didn’t realize that my pan had an epoxy handle on it. Additionally, all of the information I glanced over on Amazon didn't have anything about the pan having an epoxy handle.
So there I was, putting my pan in the oven for long periods of time, well over 200°C (392°F) and slowly melting the handle. At first, when my oven mitts started to stick to the handle I thought there might have been some residue on the mitt from a baked good that was melting onto the handle, but after several tries and even more, ruined hot pads, finally, I admitted defeat. This pan isn't for me.
All of my cookware that is intended to be used on the stovetop is also oven safe. All of it. My non-stick skillets, my stainless steel, cast iron, enameled cast iron. The whole gang can go from stovetop to oven without a second thought. So why in the world would anyone make a STEEL pan with a handle that isn’t oven-safe?
For me, this was a lesson in patience, the ability to read, and failure to do research in the blind haste of ordering cookware that was supposed to be great.
Did this pan cook and sear things beautifully? Absolutely. Did this pan cook and sear things beautifully enough to make up for the lack of oven-usability? Absolutely not. And more importantly, why would I keep a pan that can't perform as well as my other items?
So goodbye melted epoxy handle carbon steel pan.
Time to dust off the neglected cast irons.